Paris is stirring with spirited, expressive views on the fashion forecast for 2018. Maybe even more so, with Ann Demeulemeester’s 2018 Spring/Summer collection. We’ve seen fashion labels with slogans expressing equal rights, religious manifestation voiced in skirts and dresses, and even elements of distortion – a subtraction of form and structure, for the 2017/2018 collections.
Ann seemed to understand distortion more than most designers these past several seasons, in my opinion. One of her strengths is the study of texture development and exploration of her signature monochromatic color palette. Ann is not one to utilize color in her collections, and subtle pops of asymmetrical paneling is seen throughout: flowy, effortless, and riveting. You could almost say she plays with fabric samples to create her collection. Her signature look is grunge with a gothic Victorian vibe, twisted, deformed, and maybe even misinterpreted.
Her Spring/Summer collection was no different, with flyaway lashes and bindings, feathers for a lighter mood, and interestingly, gothic suiting with stark white framing. Ann didn’t shy away from slogans for the upcoming season either, with words like “forever” and “kids” in a serif font. Ann is also commended for her ability and skill in exhibiting gender neutrality, keeping almost every look unisex. Galassia Roma said,” where his sensitive and receptive soul from creative and designer captures every possible stimulus from the surrounding reality, from the art of Magritte to Rimbaud, Blake and Dylan, and then return through the tissue, the body and forms.”
Ann believes, “I want to put a soul in a garment. I don’t want my clothes to be perfect because human beings are not perfect. You can meet somebody in one of my jackets and it can all look a bit wrong, but also human and beautiful. Cutting nonchalance into a garment is difficult because you can’t just make an oversized or an asymmetric garment – it will look ugly. Making it look natural is delicate work. If it’s too obvious, then it looks fake. Balancing the garment is a painstaking task because you have to keep in mind how the clothes move.”
With Ann’s vision of what she hopes to pursue and accomplish isn’t easy, her designs express a mindset the wearer may not be able to reveal normally. I believe each piece in her upcoming collection may communicate a message, and the wearer has the power to define it.
Featured Image via Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv