Yohji Yamamoto presented his collection for spring and summer 2018 at Paris Fashion Week this evening. A pallet of black, silver, white, and red washed over the runway while an array of dramatic, eye-covering hats built up the suspense. Yohji Yamamoto’s new collection was full of half dress/half pantsuit creations. The use of willowy and flowing silhouettes put out the dark aesthetic Yamamoto was aiming for as the models glided through the stage lights. A staple look in this line would be the long-sleeve, deep-v, belted romper. It was paired with a full-length cape that held itself against the model’s neck with just a thin strap. Like most looks in this show, it came in jet black. The 2018 collection presented Yamamoto’s idea of women wearing menswear for protection. Thick, dark coats and combat boots portrayed the look of powerful women that dominate, and the confidence of the models showed that their self-defense skills should not be questioned. This Japanese designer, based both in Tokyo and Paris, is renowned for capturing the essence of Japanese design in his avant-garde styling, and Yohji Yamamoto’s 2018 collection is most definitely casting shadows of black and gray to establish dominance next season.
Since originally graduating from Keio University with a law degree, Yohji Yamamoto has long been schooled on the runway. What started out as dressmaking for his mother’s business led to a fashion degree from Bunka Fashion College. Over thirty years later and Yamamoto is a veteran to Paris Fashion Week, making him one of roughly one hundred designers that have landed a runway slot this year. With some of the world’s most prestigious fashion houses in Paris, leaving a mark and making it to Paris Fashion Week is a great feat.
Extensive planning and dedication goes into creating fifty-plus looks to send down the runway. Production companies start planning fashion week well in advance and at fees over $1 million. Designers must be on their toes with their vision for next season just after finishing the current one. Show producers must ensure that the designs of Yohji Yamamoto and other high fashion designers are presented in their best light to truly relay the message or story hidden within each look. From the right models with the right walk to the beauticians with otherworldly talents, fashion show producers have no choice but to hit the nail on the head. The designers certainly aren’t the only ones with a hefty task load per collection. This season’s models were done up right down to the makeup. Black war paint was swiped across the sides of their faces, showing that they were ready for battle.
Born in Tokyo and debuting in Paris back in 1981, Yohji Yamamoto’s goal as a designer is to create garments that look just as good on women as they do on men. The collection that waltzed down the runway in Carrousel du Louvre was an accomplished mission for Yamamoto in that respect.