A name that echoes innovation, mutation, and the concept of a new dawn, Issey Miyake is a Japanese label ahead of its time in fashion art through the medium of technology and advancement. He’s one of the first designers to bring fashion technology powered through a utilitarian approach, examining the use of elements in line through waves, shapes, and mathematically correct repetitions. Miyake adopts balance, perspective, and rhythm as the skeleton of his creations. His varying looks change in color tones and textures, all very subtle and concealed to the human eye.
Nonetheless, appreciating fine details and almost algorithmic design is still mystifying to even the most skilled eye, and that’s what makes Issey Miyake’s scientific inspirations so inspiring. There’s a sort of artificial intelligence about his designs, puzzling to anyone other than Issey Miyake himself.
Hailing from a graphic design background, his frame contours are perceived with a reflection of symmetry throughout his collections. He’s also renowned in the industry as a pioneer in pleating, flexibility, and the use of external resources such as architecture, pottery, natural elements, and even gemstones.
Miyake’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection doesn’t take away from his signature interpretation of the natural world or hi-tech techniques. Instead, 2018 looks more intriguing than what we envisioned the future to look like. The show opened and closed in contemporary dance, revealing a concept about movement, which is presumably going to be an important aspect in the future of fashion art.
Miyake takes it one step further, featuring a technologically advanced webbed-knit textile, Steam Stretch fabric, the highlight of the collection. The science behind the construction of the fabric is the brand’s trademark, and its premiere to the market, which uses “Dorozome” mud dyeing method from Amami Oshima, a tropical island in the south of Japan.
The lineup of the collection also spoke volumes about the concept of his collection. The show began with outerwear in monochromatic tessellations, introducing the new “shape-shifting” material. The show progressed with geometrical silhouettes in muted, dull colors like tree-bark terracotta and glacier-Aegean blues. The surprise of the collection was the pop of radiant white with soft frills, introducing a hint of purity. As the show unraveled, we saw depictions of the earth in slashed lines at the seams, as if to intend longitude and latitude. Grid-like, origami pixels in blue caught our eye, immediately following the presentation of earthly elements seen in ocean colors like blues, sandy beige, black rocks, and mossy, lime green for freshness, all played in layered, textured textiles, free-flowing, yet starched for stiffness. Beauty looks were subdued with remnants of makeup and frigid, textured hair as if to illustrate the arctic.
Featured image via Wallpaper*/Jason Lloyd-Evans