One of the up-and-coming womenswear labels to look out for next year is CHOCHENG, under the direction of designer Cho Cho Cheng. Educated at the Parson’s School of Design, Cheng’s aesthetic is firmly rooted in the art of British tailoring and precision, focusing on knitwear and silhouette for his Spring/Summer 2018 collection. The collection, which previewed last week at NYFW, revives the elegance and femininity of the film noir golden age of haute couture, circa 1950’s. The ready-to-wear label is known for its intricate details in skillfully woven stitch and contour of the modern woman. Témoin is the collection inspired by Marlene Dietrich in the 1957 film, Witness for the Prosecution.
The CHOCHENG show opened with a futuristic presentation of a late 50’s collection. Blue lights, smoke, and intriguing alien-like music gave the collection a more revolutionary approach to the retro separates of mix-and-match knit jackets and dresses. We saw classic silhouettes, their trim waistlines and pronounced shoulders contemporaneously reimagined. Cheng focused on the common spring colors of pastel pinks and purples as the staple to the collection, but with a mindset of Andy Warhol’s portraits of iconic celebrities, in fine British bespoke. The collection was very Chanel inspired, with fabric highlights in fine tweeds of cotton, linen, and embroidered silk lace. All of Cheng’s designs are handmade using natural materials that are both sustainable and crafted specifically for the brand.
The whimsical and newfangled, easy-going collection aroused the idea of the 50’s adaptation of the future. If you’ve seen the Austin Powers films, you’ll grasp the hint of the picturesque aura of the woman Cheng portrayed. An interesting addition to the look was the blonde side-swept fringe of the hairstyle, with nylon head wraps, which gave the notion of a very courtly manner, all very polished, with peek-a-boo nylon knee-length pantyhose. Cardigans were draped over the shoulders to keep the look durable and flexible, while details in hand-sewn silk petals took the center stage. Pastel makeup, with pops of lavender on the lids, gave the look a playful feel. Overall, the collection exhibited the unrefined and refined blend of a scholarly independent woman of the 50’s.
Photo by Noam Galai/Getty Images for New York Fashion Week: The Shows