Are we under surveillance? No, that’s just Demna Gvasalia, creative director and secret agent for Balenciaga. Demna staked out to retrieve intel of all of our (femmes à la mode) habitual patterns, conversations, swagger, and what our “bottom drawer” pajamas look like.
Balenciaga took a new route this time, introducing intimacy in privacy to the collection, a mash-up of everything we have in our closet. Demna may have tweaked things a bit, but the quintessential Balenciaga trademark hasn’t been tampered with: a witty, film noir glamour.
“I could feel the restraint of paying homage and going back to the archives every season,” Demna remarked.
Consequently, the Balenciaga Spring/Summer collection is exclusively for the dangerous woman, a renegade of sorts. The smoky atmosphere, suggested MI6, Kremlin, and mysteriously familiar territory, very Vetements.
Known for revamping their own historic fashion, Balenciaga accomplished the mission yet again, with remodeled hooverettes, restructured men’s shirts and patchwork, and rearranged swing coats. But Demna isn’t going to leave us hanging (pun intended) just yet. Next year is about layering, and not in an unconventional way. We’re seeing cut-outs of trench coats attached to over-sized shirts, nylon overcoats sewn to denim jackets at the collar, and sheets and sheets of overlapping clerical office shirts. But guess what? These pieces aren’t meant for just show-and-tell, Demna wanted to create multi-purpose fashion, using everyday wardrobe essentials, reversible at will.
Tackiness: Just for kicks, Demna focused on highlight statements using sleazy, Microsoft screen-savers as prints for pant-boots, and heavy-handed, exaggerated platform Crocs. Gaudy, best-friend charms were strewn as belts and bag straps, all deliberately. But despite the subjective“clumsiness” of it all, fashion is art, and Balenciaga has proven their allegiance to the modern day artistic pluralism, thus continuously confirming their prominence in high fashion.
Gallery images & feature image via Vogue US/Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv